Fanny Sabre is one of Burgundy’s most compelling modern voices. She took over her family domaine at just 22 years old, shifting from studying law to becoming the winemaker behind her own label. Known for her organic approach and preference for whole-bunch fermentation, she has built her estate through quiet determination and clear ideas about how she wants to work.
In this interview, Fanny talks about how she started, the challenges she faced, and the choices that shape her wines today.
WS: You were studying law at university. How did you end up becoming a winemaker?
FS: My father worked in a very commercial way, he sold most of his wine to négociants. After he passed away, my mother met Philippe Pacalet at a dinner and decided to collaborate with him. Since then, we changed all our viticulture methods to organic, started using whole-bunch fermentation and natural yeasts. We worked with Pacalet from 2001 to 2005.
In 2006, we reached a dilemma: should we sell the land or keep it? At that time I was studying law. After discussing with my sibling, I decided to give it a try. At first, I did it for my mother—she’s a special woman. So in 2006 I created my own brand, Fanny Sabre, alone, completely by myself. I was 22 years old. Honestly, it was very hard. I was young, and people were not very kind to me back then. I worked almost secretly—I didn’t even put signage on my domaine because I didn’t want people to know where I was. Looking back, it was the right thing to do to protect myself. Today, women in wine are much more appreciated.
WS: What particular winemaking process do you love most?
FS: I love whole-bunch fermentation because, for me, it’s the most amazing “invention.” Nature gives you two elements, the vegetal and the fruit, and you get this perfect balance. It’s silly to remove the stems, especially with global warming; we need them for natural freshness. It’s the same with natural yeasts. The winemaker just needs to guide the vinification: whole bunches, natural yeast, and a very, very tiny amount of SO₂. When you do good work in the vineyard, you don’t need to add acidity, sugar, or anything else.
I actually started learning winemaking through vinification first. Normally people start in the vineyard. Thanks to that path, I now know exactly what I need from the vineyard and what to do to get the grapes I want.
WS: What is your earliest memory of wine?
FS: My father was from the old generation. It was forbidden for us children to go to the vineyard or the cellar during vinification. Now I do the opposite, I want my children to come to the winery every day, to feel connected to the domaine from a young age.
WS: What was the first wine you ever had?
FS: It was a red wine from Philippe Pacalet. Honestly, I don’t remember which one. But I tasted it, looked at my mother, and said, “Wow… this is great!”
WS: Red wine or white wine?
FS: I actually prefer making red wine. I love Pinot Noir. For me, making white wine is almost too easy - you harvest, you press, and then you wait.
WS: What makes you love Pinot Noir?
FS: Pinot Noir makes me use my mind - it forces you to remember what you’ve learned, yet every vintage is different. There are common patterns, but always something new. I don’t like baking, because baking requires precise measurements. Pinot Noir is the opposite, it’s intuition, memory, and feeling.
WS: What has been the most difficult moment in your winemaking career?
FS: The hardest time was the 2024 harvest. We had mildew for the first time, and it was terrible. I decided not to harvest 70% of the grapes. It was pointless, the grapes were just stems and shrivelled berries. Too expensive for nothing.
So I decided to blend my Pommard, Beaune Clos des Renardes, and Pernand-Vergelesses into one cuvée. I created Black Label.
WS: What is your favourite terroir?
FS: My favourite terroir is Beaune Clos des Renardes. It’s higher up, about 300 meters, very calm, almost sacred. That vineyard brings me peace. I bought it in 2016, when I was pregnant with Anatole. I had to fight to buy those 2.3 hectares!
WS: You name cuvées after your children. Could you tell us more about that?
FS: I don’t just name them, I match each cuvée to their personality. Anatole is named after my youngest son. L’Oranger de Pierre is for Pierre, my oldest. It took me a long time to find a cuvée that truly represented him. Camille is very bubbly, so of course she had to be a pét-nat.
For me, my identity is simple: I am a winemaker and a mother.
